Of course the parties, where family and friends are coming together to celebrate. One of our favorites are the parrandas, groups of people walking around the city with instruments and their famous songs that everybody can join in on. The plaza is filled with people, music and kids with their firecrackers until late at night. Talking about the plaza you have to mention that our plaza (Plaza de Armas) is adorned with festive Christmas lights that put us in a cheerful mood every time we look out onto our balcony.

Another thing we love about Christmas is the food and drinks. Typical comida navideña includes lechón, pasteles, arroz con gandules and morcilla. As for dessert you should definitely try arroz con dulce, tembleque and flan.

We had our first taste of the Puerto Rican tradition “coquito” last year, when a friendly bartender mixed us one up. This one is of course not the only drink you can find at Christmas time, but it is for sure one of our favorites. Therefore we set out on a mission to find the best coquito in Old San Juan.

Our first coquito of the year was from a local jeweler’s wife, after we heard lots of raves about it, we got a bottle and what they said was true. Creamy, not too rich, just the right amount of spices and liquor. Christmas had begun…

Our next taste was at the Christmas party at the Sheraton hotel. This coquito, a lot lighter than the previous ones we had tried, was so delicious that you just wanted to keep on drinking.

We tried a few more before we found the next rival coquito at a New Year’s Eve house party, homemade by grandma and let’s face it grandmas always know how do to do the traditions best. Of course it was a secret recipe and unfortunately we left the party without getting the recipe.

After tasting many coquitos made by locals around Old San Juan we decided to taste test the restaurants of Old San Juan, stopping first at Aureola where a good friend works. Much to our dismay we found out technically restaurants are not allowed to sell coquito, but by chance encounter we met a friendly gentleman who informed us his wife made the best coquito. Intrigued we told him about our article, at which point he so generously got us a bottle form one of his restaurants. This was a twist on traditional coquito incorporating the customary ingredients with some extra kick by adding things such as frangelico. This too went on our favorites list, a nice twist on conventional with the right balance as not to have an overpowering taste of liquor.

While we didn’t accomplish our mission (of finding the best coquito in the old city) we did enjoy the season trying. We have come to the conclusion there are way too many good coquito’s to pick a number 1. We hope you enjoyed the holiday season as much as we did and have a wonderful new 2010.

Nina & Nora

Tattooing is one of the great timeless art forms. Each civilization has had its own method and purpose behind the tattooing of their bodies. Some civilizations thought that carving the symbols of the gods in their skins would grant them a view into their wisdom and knowledge. Other had markings that defined them as warriors, and were designed to frighten and demoralize the enemy. Today peoples thoughts on tattoos are mixed at best. Some get them to symbolize special moments in their lives, while other like them simply because they look cool.

Today every city worth its salt has a good and reliable tattoo parlor. It’s as necessary as the 24 hour convenience store, and usually it’s way more clean! In Old San Juan we have Senzala Tattoo, and not only is it as clean as can be, it also houses excellent skin art.

Located on 354 San Francisco street, Senzala has a quaint entrance that you could miss if you’re not looking for it specifically. The residents are Eddie, Demian, Manolo, Hendrix and Angel. (Im sure there are more, but those are the ones I could see and recognize, sorry guys).These guys will tattoo and pierce you to you hearts content and leave you in good health.

So next time your in O.S.J. take some time out to visit your friendly neighborhood tattoo parlor and let your imagination soar (or sore, whatever the case may be). But if you already have something in your mind, like a design or a piercing idea, it might be best to give the guys a call and arange for a meeting, their number is 787-722-3676 .

If you’ve had your tattoo done at Senzala then send us pictures and we’ll be glad to post them up.

*pics taken from Senzala’s webpage: www.senzalatattoo.com

EDIT: Found this right after writing the previous post.

While searching the net for information about the Senzala article, I came across a very cool tattoo of our very own El Morro castle.

This picture is from Johnny Berrios, a tattoo artist from Easthampton Massachusetts, who im sure is Puerto Rican or at least latino (his last name is Berrios, so yeah thats kind of a given!). Aside from the iconic fort, he also has a sleeve tattoo of Roberto Clemente which you NEED to check out! Drop by his site www.johnnyberrios.com and comment on the awesome art he displays on it.

If you have a tattoo with an image of Old San Juan, like “La Garita del Diablo” or something of the sort, send us a picture of it ,and well do a write up for it!

Through the electronic grape vine that is the Internet I received information that this weekend of July 18 and 19, The National Park services are offering free tours in Castle San Cristobal and El Morro Fort!

Come one, come all! The tours are different for each site, the San Cristobal tour features a Tunnel Tour starting at 10:30 am, Out works walk at 2:30 pm and informational talks every hour on the hour. While the El Morro tours feature Outwork walks all day and informational talks also on the hour.

If you cant make it this weekend then don’t fret! There will be another free weekend on August 15 and 16,2009!

I strongly recommend the tunnel tour of San Cristobal to everybody, it’s an interesting experience that gives you a glimpse of what made these Forts so strong and how they relate to the entire city of Old San Juan. It also makes you think about what lies beneath your feet everywhere!

]]> http://www.livesanjuan.com/tourism/free-tour-weekends/feed/ 0 http://www.livesanjuan.com/tourism/problems-where-to-find-the-basic-services-in-old-san-juan/ http://www.livesanjuan.com/tourism/problems-where-to-find-the-basic-services-in-old-san-juan/#comments Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:47:57 +0000 Toxic_Lunch http://www.livesanjuan.com/?p=278 Lets face it, as much as we would like it to be, life is not a walk in the park. When we least expect it, things can go tumbling downhill on the cobblestones. Times like these you need to know where to find help: whether it be medical, police related, or transportation, Old San Juan has everything to get those first aids. The trick is finding them quick enough. So we’re here to help!

1- Medical Emergencies: On San Francisco street, in front of the Plaza de Armas you will find two drugstores stocked with every essential item for minor scrapes, bruises, as well as emergency medicine runs. One o them is a major chain store, while the other is a local pharmacy. If I would recommend one I would say to go to the local one, (more inexpensive), but if you have your prescriptions on the more famous one, that’s the one you will need.

2- Security emergencies: For all the police related problems that happen in Old San Juan, you will need to head to the Puerta de Tierra Police Headquarters. If you’re in a car accident, lose your possessions, or are accosted, this is the place you need to go to make an official complaint. Old San Juan is always crawling with police officers so if something were to go down, you will usually find one near to your location. The Headquartes is located on Fernandez Juncos Avenue in Puerta de Tierra, near the fire department and the McDonalds.

3-Transportation emergencies: Nobody is going to get mad at you if you miss your bus back to your hotel because you were too busy finding the perfect souvenir. (Well maybe your wife/husband.) So for those: “I have to get out of here quick”- emergencies, you need to head to the corner of Tetuan street and Fortaleza street. There you will find a brigade of Taxi’s ready to take you wherever your lodging might be. These cabbies can be found round the clock, into the late hours of the night looking for fares. I would recommend care in selecting the taxi, they can be very competitive with each other and they are not afraid to fight for a fare! Don’t let this scare you, it just means that you will always be able to find the ride you need….or let go in the first place. Cabs painted white are part of the Tourist taxi program and have set fares for most routes, check ‘em out here on their website http://www.cabspr.com

As always be sure to practice safety at all hours! Old San Juan might not be as big as New York City but the same rules of security apply: mind the traffic, be courteous, don’t walk alone late at night, and if you have doubts as to your current surroundings go into a business and ask.

Know any other places where you can find help on the OSJ? Sound off in the comments below!

I am of the belief that food should be appreciated for the work it is. Not to be over expected and not to be overcharged. Of course eating is always a multi-sensory experience, and there is nothing wrong in wanting to taste and experience the greatest flavors this earth can conjure. But believe me, most of them are not to be found on restaurants. Nothing against them, the best experiences money can by can usually be found at a GOOD restaurant. Fancy or not, good is good, and great is always great. My point is that no restaurant can ever replace the feel and taste of a home cooked meal, your grandmother’s cooking, your dad/grandfather’s bbq, your uncle’s pasta or whatever.

The best restaurant in the world can only hope to emulate the indigenous cooking of another country’s traditional kitchen, but it can never surpass it.

Aguaviva

To me the most important aspect of Old San Juan is without a doubt the world class  food and drink choices that are readily available. Walking down  Recinto Sur street will show you culinary choices from Japan, Puerto Rico, Greece, Italy, and Spain, all literally steps from each other. On Fortaleza street, and the surrounding you can find some of the most famous hang outs in the metropolitan area, the OOF! family of restaurants.

Combining and rethinking the way we think about creative cuisine, OOF! runs the tightest restaurants in Old San Juan, like Dragonfly and Aguaviva, two very different kitchens that have become synonymous with Old San Juan. All of their restaurants deal in more than just intricate foods, they also deal an experience. Their goal is for their guests to live and experience the food and the ambiance, to take them to a very special place where their food is their paint brush and the palate is their canvas.

Dragonfly

These restaurants are the eternal hot-spots in Old San Juan! But they are just the tip of the iceberg. The OOF! family is among many other restaurants that make up the culinary fabric of OSJ. So we shall review and inform you of all the newest happenings from all of these kitchens. Stay hungry!

Souvenir Sauces

In one afternoon I saw: a wall covered in shot glasses, a barrel full of tambourines, frogs in every article imaginable  and coffee cups shaped like butts and breasts. Going souvenir shopping in Old San Juan is the very definition of quirk.

Ranging from artful crafts like handmade cigars or wooden mask, all the way to the cliche key chains and t-shirts, no matter what your friends back home like, you will find something in OSJ for them. Hand made soap? Check. Fancy jewelery? More than you could afford to look at. Towels with scantly clad women in them? Oh yeah.  They even have Bruce Lee posters, and Chinese weapons…I don’t know why, but they have ‘em. Check La Tanca street.

Wooden and ceramic signs declaring “Captains booty” with skull and bones sailors grinning their dead smiles liven up the otherwise standard coqui and El Morro pieces. Not that there is anything wrong with our iconic vistas, but speaking as a citizen of this great island, sometimes its good to see the goofy stuff right up there with the classics. Classics that are everywhere from shot glasses to ashtrays!

The stores are scattered throughout the city and almost none are alike. Like the restaurants, you will keep running into them, so stopping by for a quick look is really part of the tour experience. And also like restaurants, in some of them you will be able to find traditional foods, candies, sauces, and rums, with the exception that you take these home with you with out the doggy bags.

Souvenir Vejigante Masks

Remember the main things when getting a souvenir for someone, is asking yourself: “what do I want to tell them with this gift.” If you want to enlighten them, you might get them a “Vejigante mask” (above pictured) and instruct them about a fun, time honored tradition in Puerto Rico. But if you want to make them laugh… then maybe your best bet is the pair of breasts coffee mug.

So in the spirit of helping out , here are some recommendations on where to begin scavenging for souvenirs:

1- Eccua Imports- Located on La Tanca street: This is the best place to start the search for souvenirs, their variety is what makes the store a must visit. In here you will be able to find: towels, Puerto Rican flags, clothes with the PR flags on em, bathing suits, coffee cups (yes, even the big breasted cups), thimbles, cold drinks, and much much more.  But what about the most important part: the price? Eccua Imports has some of the lowest prices of all the souvenir shops. Check em out.

2- Any of the fine smoking stores – Don Collins, the independent craftsmen in Plaza de Colon, etc: Not just for cigar lovers, these stores are great one stop places to stock up on some great Caribbean rum and leather articles. For those who love cigars though, you will find everything from your Double Coronas to your Robustos and Churchills. And more lighters than you can probably see in one visit.

3- The independent sellers all over the city – From homemade treats to indulge your sweet tooth, intricate wood sculptures you wont find anywhere else, hand made clothes, and gallerias stocked with art raging from antique to “made last night”. What can you not love about being able to meet the people behind the work? You will not only get something for a loved one, you will learn about the reasons, symbols and details that have culminated in the artist’s work in front of you. These will often include details of our history, local and national, that have been forgotten by the mainstream. This is the true and most important souvenir you could ever take from us, and give to your friends and family.

Many artists from all over the Island come to Old San Juan to capture the scenery for their personal collections, looking to demonstrate a new angle on famous structures and to find overlooked spots to shine some artistic light in. When you combine this with the huge number of tourists that visit the city every day you get the reason why OSJ’s vistas are famous around the world.

Here are some artistic expressions from Old San Juan.

The Portal by Toxic Lunch

Slow afternoon for crafts by Toxic Lunch

The Cobblestones by John Grace

Spikes in the Princess Walkway by John Grace

The last two pictures were taken by John Grace for his travel blog: Windward Journey, both of them link back to his original post where you can see more of his beautiful pictures of OSJ.

If you have any pictures of Old San Juan you would like us to see and post, please send it to pulgatory@gmail.com, so I can take a look at it!

While Old San Juan is a very cool city, it can get scorching hot very quickly! Here are some of the best ways to lower the heat when your in the OSJ.

3-Ben and Jerry’s

Although you might think that because of its comfortable and air conditioned facilities, and the fact that they serve any product derived from the lovely iced cream, this one would be on top of the list. Well your not entirely wrong, but the only thing keeping it from climbing higher is the fact that its a franchise found in the USA.

Regardless, Ben and Jerry’s is one of the most visited establishments in the city and the number one choice in many tourist’s minds to find a little taste from home and cool off. All of the traditional B&J flavors are in check and presented with a bohemian flair characterized by the friendly staff, who have no shortage of recommendations for all the customers who find themselves baffled by the selection process.

2- Piraguas

A delicious Puerto Rican tradition, the piragua is a staple of Old San Juan just as the military base of El Morro. Consisting of a cone of shaved ice swimming in fruit flavored syrup, the treat is a necessity for anyone who visits the city, not only to cool off, but to make the experience complete. The locals say that to visit OSJ and not have a piragua is like never having visited at all.

The syrup flavors run the gamut of authentic Puerto Rican fruits and tastes like guava, tamarind, coconut, pineapple, strawberry and orange. The Piragueros who sell the treat are scattered throughout the entire city. It is impossible to visit the city and not see one of the many colorful pushcarts, with a giant block of ice inside and dozens of syrup bottles decorating it, moving up and down the streets looking for customers. Although most of the Piragueros find a sale spot and stick with it. Some take their creativity to another level in the way of multi-flavor, multi- colored syrup concoctions that give the shaved ice the artful quality of a Van Gough or Rembrandt.

1- Old Harbor microbrewery

Let’s face it, there comes a time on a persons life where ice cream is just not enough. You want something that will cool the sweat on your forehead and all through the cells in your body. You need a beer. A REAL beer. Something that will leave a full bodied taste and not a watered down mess. You need Old Harbor: where the beer stops being beer and becomes Ambrosia.

Located on Tizol street, near the Paseo de la Princesa, the brewery shines with modern elegance and a tranquil environment where the beer is king. The cuisine is as delectable as their beer, making the entire package just one sweet, sweet experience.

Nothing gets the heat out of the body like a Santo Viejo pint on the afternoon. An award winning pilsner, Santo Viejo is this humble writer’s favorite beer in Old Harbor, although the selection is vast and all top notch, you will find one that makes you fall in love always on tap and perfectly cooled. You could try the coffee flavored stout Kofresí, or the ever changing Taina, a seasonal beer that is a must for every patron! As you might have guessed by now, words alone cannot express the majesty of Old Harbor, so go and try it for yourself!

Which one of these do you prefer? Have an option that is not on this list? Take the test for yourself and let your voice be heard in the comments! Name your favorite place and well do a spotlight on it!

Now go cool off!

*all pictures provided by google images, except the Old Harbor glasses part of  Toxic Lunch’s private collection