Paseo del morro trail

On Monday the 3rd of August 2009, Old San Juan was blanketed by rain. All through out the day, I’d listened to the radio tell me how I should not to venture outside without an umbrella. So what did I do? I started walking around town with nothing but a shoulder bag, a book and my notebook.

The day was quiet for a Monday, no shortage of workers or visitors, but the town had that sleepy quality that usually comes with rainy mornings. I had been walking around Calle San Sebastian sampling the fried food from the few vendors that were open when 1 pm rolled around. I was amazed that it was one in the afternoon and there was no sun in the sky and the air was still cool.

My empty-mindedness led me down Calle del Cristo and further down into la Caleta de San Juan, until I was face to face with the San Juan bay. The air hit my face and made me turn right, following the El Morro trail. I was staring out into the bay as I walked on the trail, never minding my way. I started seeing a lot of stray cats, on top of the rocks in the shore and walking through the bushes that lined the wall. Their soft meows and quick shuffles at the sound of my approach entertained me to no end. A minute later, I looked around and saw not one being around me, person or animal.

That same minute, I felt the first few drops of rain hit my forehead. Gazing up, I saw the entire sky falling down on me. Hurrying up the pace, I tried to protect my books and started walking faster trying to reach the end of the trail. And when I did, I wanted to shoot myself out of a cannon.

The smoke in my head cleared, and I realized I was at a dead end. El Morro trail ends in a roundabout, and you have to turn back the way you came. I was stuck under the rain, on the wrong side of the wall. Worst part about it, is that I’ve been to that place many times before. If I would have paid more attention…id still be dry.

My clouded sense of adventure, and the fact that the weather was so cool, made me completely forget about the impending rain and the fact that I was walking down a dead end street. I solemnly accepted my fate, turned around and walked all the way back towards Paseo de la Princessa.

I sat down to dry in Old Harbor with a liter of beer. My books were ok. And I tried to get into my head the lessons I had learned that day: 1) Always pay attention to the weather reports, and 2) always mind your feet when your brain is out for lunch, or you might end up on a dead-end and wet. I needed that second liter of beer.

*picture: google pics

While Old San Juan is a very cool city, it can get scorching hot very quickly! Here are some of the best ways to lower the heat when your in the OSJ.

3-Ben and Jerry’s

Although you might think that because of its comfortable and air conditioned facilities, and the fact that they serve any product derived from the lovely iced cream, this one would be on top of the list. Well your not entirely wrong, but the only thing keeping it from climbing higher is the fact that its a franchise found in the USA.

Regardless, Ben and Jerry’s is one of the most visited establishments in the city and the number one choice in many tourist’s minds to find a little taste from home and cool off. All of the traditional B&J flavors are in check and presented with a bohemian flair characterized by the friendly staff, who have no shortage of recommendations for all the customers who find themselves baffled by the selection process.

2- Piraguas

A delicious Puerto Rican tradition, the piragua is a staple of Old San Juan just as the military base of El Morro. Consisting of a cone of shaved ice swimming in fruit flavored syrup, the treat is a necessity for anyone who visits the city, not only to cool off, but to make the experience complete. The locals say that to visit OSJ and not have a piragua is like never having visited at all.

The syrup flavors run the gamut of authentic Puerto Rican fruits and tastes like guava, tamarind, coconut, pineapple, strawberry and orange. The Piragueros who sell the treat are scattered throughout the entire city. It is impossible to visit the city and not see one of the many colorful pushcarts, with a giant block of ice inside and dozens of syrup bottles decorating it, moving up and down the streets looking for customers. Although most of the Piragueros find a sale spot and stick with it. Some take their creativity to another level in the way of multi-flavor, multi- colored syrup concoctions that give the shaved ice the artful quality of a Van Gough or Rembrandt.

1- Old Harbor microbrewery

Let’s face it, there comes a time on a persons life where ice cream is just not enough. You want something that will cool the sweat on your forehead and all through the cells in your body. You need a beer. A REAL beer. Something that will leave a full bodied taste and not a watered down mess. You need Old Harbor: where the beer stops being beer and becomes Ambrosia.

Located on Tizol street, near the Paseo de la Princesa, the brewery shines with modern elegance and a tranquil environment where the beer is king. The cuisine is as delectable as their beer, making the entire package just one sweet, sweet experience.

Nothing gets the heat out of the body like a Santo Viejo pint on the afternoon. An award winning pilsner, Santo Viejo is this humble writer’s favorite beer in Old Harbor, although the selection is vast and all top notch, you will find one that makes you fall in love always on tap and perfectly cooled. You could try the coffee flavored stout Kofresí, or the ever changing Taina, a seasonal beer that is a must for every patron! As you might have guessed by now, words alone cannot express the majesty of Old Harbor, so go and try it for yourself!

Which one of these do you prefer? Have an option that is not on this list? Take the test for yourself and let your voice be heard in the comments! Name your favorite place and well do a spotlight on it!

Now go cool off!

*all pictures provided by google images, except the Old Harbor glasses part of  Toxic Lunch’s private collection