There are various places in Old San Juan where you can enjoy a pizza. But if you’re like me, you pledge allegiance to one place, under god, indivisible, for cheapness and hunger for all. To me this place is Pizzicorre, located on Calle Luna #255, a friendly neighborhood pizzeria that serves great slices at amazing speed.

I decided to go and do some “hands-on investigating”. And the first thing that caught my eye was that the place is a little on the small side. Making take out orders the most convenient, unless the place has room, then by all means get a table and take in the relaxing retro style of the place. The tables are comfortable and the staff is very diligent, so your food usually only takes a couple of minutes to get ready. The design has a nice Grease meets Johnny Rockets vibe.

On my visit I ordered 2 slices (Peperoni and Hawaian) and a glass of beer (Corona). This rounded out to about 10$, with the slices and beers costing 3.50 each. The food took a good seven minutes to get to me and it was hot and still all gooey from the oven. The slices were slightly crispy but at the same time soft and firm, it had no burnt flavor and the toppings were very good. Although I will say that for a 3.50 slice of pizza I imagined slices like the ones pizza places give in New York, huge almost half moon slices. While that was not the case, the freshness made up for it.

Pizzicorre has a wide range of combinations to choose from, including: Vegetarian, and Greek pizza. (No idea what it is, but I plan to find out in a future visit). Also worth mentioning is that they have a very reliable delivery service and it’s free! So if you can’t make it then call 787-725-4025 and problem solved.

Hawaiian

All in all Pizzicorre serves the cheapest but greatest pizzas you can enjoy in the Old city, so bypass the fancy shmancy places with confidence, this is the place all the locals and residents go to. This is true San Juan pizza. Enjoy.

Paseo del morro trail

On Monday the 3rd of August 2009, Old San Juan was blanketed by rain. All through out the day, I’d listened to the radio tell me how I should not to venture outside without an umbrella. So what did I do? I started walking around town with nothing but a shoulder bag, a book and my notebook.

The day was quiet for a Monday, no shortage of workers or visitors, but the town had that sleepy quality that usually comes with rainy mornings. I had been walking around Calle San Sebastian sampling the fried food from the few vendors that were open when 1 pm rolled around. I was amazed that it was one in the afternoon and there was no sun in the sky and the air was still cool.

My empty-mindedness led me down Calle del Cristo and further down into la Caleta de San Juan, until I was face to face with the San Juan bay. The air hit my face and made me turn right, following the El Morro trail. I was staring out into the bay as I walked on the trail, never minding my way. I started seeing a lot of stray cats, on top of the rocks in the shore and walking through the bushes that lined the wall. Their soft meows and quick shuffles at the sound of my approach entertained me to no end. A minute later, I looked around and saw not one being around me, person or animal.

That same minute, I felt the first few drops of rain hit my forehead. Gazing up, I saw the entire sky falling down on me. Hurrying up the pace, I tried to protect my books and started walking faster trying to reach the end of the trail. And when I did, I wanted to shoot myself out of a cannon.

The smoke in my head cleared, and I realized I was at a dead end. El Morro trail ends in a roundabout, and you have to turn back the way you came. I was stuck under the rain, on the wrong side of the wall. Worst part about it, is that I’ve been to that place many times before. If I would have paid more attention…id still be dry.

My clouded sense of adventure, and the fact that the weather was so cool, made me completely forget about the impending rain and the fact that I was walking down a dead end street. I solemnly accepted my fate, turned around and walked all the way back towards Paseo de la Princessa.

I sat down to dry in Old Harbor with a liter of beer. My books were ok. And I tried to get into my head the lessons I had learned that day: 1) Always pay attention to the weather reports, and 2) always mind your feet when your brain is out for lunch, or you might end up on a dead-end and wet. I needed that second liter of beer.

*picture: google pics

Here we have one of the coolest bars  in Calle del Cristo on Old San Juan, sporting its new Electronic/Industrial club redesign. Don Pablo has become one of the most stand out bars in the zone by always keeping the party into the late hours and always having thumping music on deck. And I’m sure that the huge drink size and their comfortable prices also have something to do with its success.

I’m sure that they get straighter as you get drunker

The nightclub ambiance is ever present, even though it might look like its just a bar. The place is spacious, with room to sit and places to rest drinks all over, so if you’re dancing, your drink wont end up on the floor. And when you’re tired lounge it up till you can get back up again.

The bartender didn’t want to be in the pictures, so I got her in the shadows

The place looks amazing, serves great big drinks, has a cute and able bartender in the back, and packs in the people as the night goes on…what more could you want?

Look at those big cups..of drinks.

So go and party the night away and then comeback and tell us what you think! Cheers!

]]> http://www.livesanjuan.com/night-life/the-neon-glow-of-the-electric-night-don-pablo-redesigned/feed/ 0 http://www.livesanjuan.com/activities-and-events/rumbon-in-la-tancas-alley/ http://www.livesanjuan.com/activities-and-events/rumbon-in-la-tancas-alley/#comments Wed, 12 Aug 2009 16:54:26 +0000 Toxic_Lunch http://www.livesanjuan.com/?p=383

On Saturday August 1,2009 the alley located at the top of the La Tanca street welcomed dusk with the bombastic rhythms of Bomba and Plena. The narrow sidewalk that houses two bars one in front of the other, was mobbed with revelers of all races and ages, dancing in a manic frenzy that enveloped every one around. If you were there, you were not “just watching”.

I came across it, in my search for a cold beer to start the night on the city. I kept following this faint beat all through Norzagaray street, when I stepped into the alley, my feet took over and instantly made me join in the celebration. “Who are these people” – was my question to every person I met while bumping into them on the way to the bar located on the middle of the alley. “I don’t know, but they got a party going on”: this sums up nicely every answer I got.

So I didn’t know who was playing, the street kept getting more crowded by the minute and my exits had been closed up by the new comers trying to figure out what was going on. On the short time that I was there the group played 5 songs never stopping to take a break. The players were sipping their drinks in-between music changes, and every few songs one of them would drop his instrument and run to the bar to get the group refills.

After the second beer I realized I was never going to get a still shot. So after half maneuvering, half dancing my way out of my safe corner, I moved out into San Sebastian street Everything from then on would be great, I knew it would. After you decide to hangout, and then the world thrusts you into a party such as this, you know Fortune is smiling at you. I’mk putting this in the Day to Day category, because this is what the City’s like, you never know what Old San Juan will show you. Enjoy the night.

Through the electronic grape vine that is the Internet I received information that this weekend of July 18 and 19, The National Park services are offering free tours in Castle San Cristobal and El Morro Fort!

Come one, come all! The tours are different for each site, the San Cristobal tour features a Tunnel Tour starting at 10:30 am, Out works walk at 2:30 pm and informational talks every hour on the hour. While the El Morro tours feature Outwork walks all day and informational talks also on the hour.

If you cant make it this weekend then don’t fret! There will be another free weekend on August 15 and 16,2009!

I strongly recommend the tunnel tour of San Cristobal to everybody, it’s an interesting experience that gives you a glimpse of what made these Forts so strong and how they relate to the entire city of Old San Juan. It also makes you think about what lies beneath your feet everywhere!

]]> http://www.livesanjuan.com/tourism/free-tour-weekends/feed/ 0 http://www.livesanjuan.com/featured/rums-in-old-san-juan/ http://www.livesanjuan.com/featured/rums-in-old-san-juan/#comments Fri, 17 Jul 2009 02:26:20 +0000 Toxic_Lunch http://www.livesanjuan.com/?p=309 Oak barrels aging the rum

The worlds best rums are made in Puerto Rico. Some people would like to argue with that. Specially if they are from any of our neighboring Caribbean islands. But sadly for them, they are not the one writing this blog…sooo Puerto Rico’s rums are the best. Period.

This is going to be an anecdote about trying to find a good rum, in Old San Juan. Not that it’s hard to find, or there’s a drought going on. With all the bars in this small city, I’m amazed they can all stay in business! I guess it’s a testament to their quality and our genetic love for sweet, sweet alcohol. And that is the problem. There are so many good bars that serve the same kinds of rum, that finding something original can not only take a big deal of time, but also make you feel like you have discovered a new continent.

The blending tank

About two years ago, I was wondering aimlessly through OSJ, when I had a revelation: I found an extra 20$ in my pants! So I started thinking about getting a drink to battle the heat, and something strange happened…my cravings were not for beer. I felt like I needed a strong drink. To hell with cooling down, let me enjoy the heat!

I happened to walk past Don Collins in Cristo street, where a friend of mine was working at the time. I saw him and we struck up a conversation. I wanted to know if he could recommend me a good rum bar near the area. He looked at me and almost slapped my head. “Are you kidding me? Your going to spend money in a bar for a rum you can buy in a supermarket?” I was speechless. My first thought was to kick his butt for scolding me in public. But just when I was about to, he put an arm on my shoulder and directed me inside Don Collins.

The Masterpiece

“You will not find this rum in these bars, very few have it.”- he said as he pulled open a fine wooden shelf and handed me a shot glass.

From the shelf he pulled out a slim bottle of brown liquor, as he opened it the aroma from inside escaped and filled my nostrils. The scent of oak overpowered my senses, I instantly knew it was rum. My first instinct was to down the shotglass, and as I readied my arm my friend stopped me. “This is a sipping rum dude, don’t shoot it, enjoy it.”

So I did just that. I took a small sip and was instantly blown away, the taste was powerful yet smooth. I could see why this rum was in a smoke shop, it’s the perfect companion to a cigar, and actually helps improve the taste of the tobacco. I even saw some patrons in the store dipping the tips of their cigars in the rum. “We have regulars that come just to get the rum, but they take a few cigars with them, because temptation is just too great.”

He was right. Temptation was too great. So I spent my  20$ in a bottle of Barrilito, and I spent the rest of the day lounging in my house trying to remember where those twenty dollars came from.

*all pictures taken from http://www.refinedvices.com/ron-del-barrilito-tour

1- Medical Emergencies: On San Francisco street, in front of the Plaza de Armas you will find two drugstores stocked with every essential item for minor scrapes, bruises, as well as emergency medicine runs. One o them is a major chain store, while the other is a local pharmacy. If I would recommend one I would say to go to the local one, (more inexpensive), but if you have your prescriptions on the more famous one, that’s the one you will need.

2- Security emergencies: For all the police related problems that happen in Old San Juan, you will need to head to the Puerta de Tierra Police Headquarters. If you’re in a car accident, lose your possessions, or are accosted, this is the place you need to go to make an official complaint. Old San Juan is always crawling with police officers so if something were to go down, you will usually find one near to your location. The Headquartes is located on Fernandez Juncos Avenue in Puerta de Tierra, near the fire department and the McDonalds.

3-Transportation emergencies: Nobody is going to get mad at you if you miss your bus back to your hotel because you were too busy finding the perfect souvenir. (Well maybe your wife/husband.) So for those: “I have to get out of here quick”- emergencies, you need to head to the corner of Tetuan street and Fortaleza street. There you will find a brigade of Taxi’s ready to take you wherever your lodging might be. These cabbies can be found round the clock, into the late hours of the night looking for fares. I would recommend care in selecting the taxi, they can be very competitive with each other and they are not afraid to fight for a fare! Don’t let this scare you, it just means that you will always be able to find the ride you need….or let go in the first place. Cabs painted white are part of the Tourist taxi program and have set fares for most routes, check ‘em out here on their website http://www.cabspr.com

As always be sure to practice safety at all hours! Old San Juan might not be as big as New York City but the same rules of security apply: mind the traffic, be courteous, don’t walk alone late at night, and if you have doubts as to your current surroundings go into a business and ask.

Know any other places where you can find help on the OSJ? Sound off in the comments below!

Souvenir Sauces

In one afternoon I saw: a wall covered in shot glasses, a barrel full of tambourines, frogs in every article imaginable  and coffee cups shaped like butts and breasts. Going souvenir shopping in Old San Juan is the very definition of quirk.

Ranging from artful crafts like handmade cigars or wooden mask, all the way to the cliche key chains and t-shirts, no matter what your friends back home like, you will find something in OSJ for them. Hand made soap? Check. Fancy jewelery? More than you could afford to look at. Towels with scantly clad women in them? Oh yeah.  They even have Bruce Lee posters, and Chinese weapons…I don’t know why, but they have ‘em. Check La Tanca street.

Wooden and ceramic signs declaring “Captains booty” with skull and bones sailors grinning their dead smiles liven up the otherwise standard coqui and El Morro pieces. Not that there is anything wrong with our iconic vistas, but speaking as a citizen of this great island, sometimes its good to see the goofy stuff right up there with the classics. Classics that are everywhere from shot glasses to ashtrays!

The stores are scattered throughout the city and almost none are alike. Like the restaurants, you will keep running into them, so stopping by for a quick look is really part of the tour experience. And also like restaurants, in some of them you will be able to find traditional foods, candies, sauces, and rums, with the exception that you take these home with you with out the doggy bags.

Souvenir Vejigante Masks

Remember the main things when getting a souvenir for someone, is asking yourself: “what do I want to tell them with this gift.” If you want to enlighten them, you might get them a “Vejigante mask” (above pictured) and instruct them about a fun, time honored tradition in Puerto Rico. But if you want to make them laugh… then maybe your best bet is the pair of breasts coffee mug.

So in the spirit of helping out , here are some recommendations on where to begin scavenging for souvenirs:

1- Eccua Imports- Located on La Tanca street: This is the best place to start the search for souvenirs, their variety is what makes the store a must visit. In here you will be able to find: towels, Puerto Rican flags, clothes with the PR flags on em, bathing suits, coffee cups (yes, even the big breasted cups), thimbles, cold drinks, and much much more.  But what about the most important part: the price? Eccua Imports has some of the lowest prices of all the souvenir shops. Check em out.

2- Any of the fine smoking stores – Don Collins, the independent craftsmen in Plaza de Colon, etc: Not just for cigar lovers, these stores are great one stop places to stock up on some great Caribbean rum and leather articles. For those who love cigars though, you will find everything from your Double Coronas to your Robustos and Churchills. And more lighters than you can probably see in one visit.

3- The independent sellers all over the city – From homemade treats to indulge your sweet tooth, intricate wood sculptures you wont find anywhere else, hand made clothes, and gallerias stocked with art raging from antique to “made last night”. What can you not love about being able to meet the people behind the work? You will not only get something for a loved one, you will learn about the reasons, symbols and details that have culminated in the artist’s work in front of you. These will often include details of our history, local and national, that have been forgotten by the mainstream. This is the true and most important souvenir you could ever take from us, and give to your friends and family.

“You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave”

Ladies and gentlemen gather around, gather round and hear the voices from those who have disappeared! Vanished! Into the night. Nothing but their clothes and close items were found, and then their voices called from beyond! You stand near, from where the devils hand, was said to appear, to snatch foolish soldiers who dared venture the dark. Welcome to the Castle San Cristobal, and welcome to The Devil’s Guerite!

Actually its not that freaky, its more like a natural occurrence caused by the sudden collision of two bodies. I’m talking about the supposed “voices” that can be heard on the Devils Guerite. But I am getting ahead of myself, lets go back  to the beginning.

The Spaniards began construction of Castle San Cristobal on 1765, and completed by 1783. The decision to construct another major fort in San Juan, came after the Dutch were able to take the city by attacking from  land side, on the year 1625. Initially the castle was a small post for look out and armed guards, and was later expanded.

And that, my precious reader, brings us to the soldiers who worked and lived in the Castle. When the night shift came, the darkest corner of the castle held a guarite that all sentinels hated to stand guard in. Maybe it was because the darkness, or because they all felt like they could hear voices in the vicinity, only to find themselves alone above the sea.

One night, their worst fears came to life. A young sentinel by the name Sánchez, stopped responding to his fellow soldiers alerts of guard. As soon as the sun rose above the horizon, the soldiers went to Sánchez’s post expecting to find him asleep during watch. They found his musket, his armor and his item bag, all inside the guerite. Sánchez was nowhere to be found. He disappeared without a trace.

“I hear the voices”

The soldiers who found his belongings said to their superior officer that: “it was as if the devil himself snatched him away.” Those same soldiers named the place their fallen comrade was last seen as: “The Devil’s Guarite.” The voices that they once only thought  they heard, became the clear voices of the damned.

I bet you are wondering what really happened to that lone sentinel Sánchez. Well several years after the legend of the devil’s guarite had spread around the city and settlements, Sánchez was found in a settlement on Luquillo’s Forrest. Apparently it was his love Diana, and not the devil, that snatched away the soldier from his post. He wanted to forget the wars and the military life, and settle down with his Diana to have a family and live a normal life. And the voices? Nothing but the sound of the wind coursing through the narrow walls of the fort. A sonic illusion.

But who knows? Dead men tell no tales.

So now in honor of Reba Stewart’s life and mythos, I present you with some of her art work.

Mobile / made from driftwood she collected from behind the cemetery/ 1961-1962

Mobile/ made from driftwood/ 1961-1962

“Tree Forms in Black” / Japanese woodblock print

Booklet/ Japanese woodblock print

Tanguo Bay #1/ Felt pen/ May 28 1969/ drawn in Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico Sea and Sky/ pen and ink with wash

These haunting works serve as proof of the amazing talent that was Stewart. They leave a trace of the passion and vision for Old San Juan and Puerto Rico that kept her here until her death from malaria in 1971.

]]> http://www.livesanjuan.com/history/the-art-of-reba-stewart/feed/ 0